Clothing Guidance:

Clothing will be as authentic as is possible, based upon late 16th century to mid 17th century, however we do not have a problem with machine sewn clothing.

 

For men this will include doublet and hose (NOT soldiers coats) and also for any women wishing to take to the field in men’s roles.

 

Basic Soldier:

Colours: Grey, Russet, Muted Green, Muted Brown - nothing garish.

1)           Mid-thigh length linen shirt - 'granddad' styled, small falling collar or self-ruff neck either laced or buttoned, with baggy sleeves drawn up to the cuffs either laced or buttoned. 

2)         Knitted or cloth hose, worn with a woven garter band (NO ribbons)

3)         Latchets - closed or open, or start-ups - brown or tan only.

4)         Breeches - Galligaskins, Venetian – buttoned at knee (NOT tied), laced/pointed or hooked to doublet or singlet

5)         Doublet

 

Early style cassock - mandilion in subdued red - with long sleeves.

Statute cap - (NOT blue) choice of colours - natural, beige, brown, green, russet

Monmouth Cap.

 

Musketeer:

Colours as for basic soldier.

1)           Calivers, Helmet, Jack.

2)          Bandoliers, Belt, Sword, Small tuck, Cabaset

3)         Matchlock

Pike man: -

1)           Gauntlets, Jack or Armour

2)         Tuck sword, Pike, Dagger

Swords on belt hangers (NOT baldrics)

 

Women wishing to go on the field as musketeers, drummers or pike must wear the same as their male counterparts and no makeup.

 

Officers:

Appearance of 'better quality' clothes.

Colours: Beige, Grey, Russet, Green, Brown 

1)            Doublet

2)          Breeches

3)          Linen shirt (style as for the basic soldier)

 

Women:

Colours: Green, Beige, Brown, Russet, Grey, Ochre, Dull Red

1)           Late 1500's style linen shift calf length.

2)         Petticoats – linen/wool in muted colours

3)         Skirts – linen/wool in muted colours

4)         Half hose - fabric or knitted colours

5)         Latchets – brown, russet (NOT black)

6)         Body/Bodice - boned. above centre breast height.

7)         Waistcoat - (NOT black or purple) and no solid/strong colours

8)         Apron

9)         Partlet

10)      Coif 

11)        One piece kirtle

 

For women: in the historical camp, female attire consistent with the time period, elsewhere to be in keeping with your role please have the correct under pinning.

 

Children:

Under 7 - long dress boys and girls or Eton coat for boys

Over 7 - boys in breeches and girls miniature version of mother.

 

Over coats and jackets for all. By this we mean Mandilions and Cassocks again try and stay in status of who you are portraying.

 

Also, a cautionary note for all – Facial piercing ornaments must be removed, watches, rings with stones, and bracelets

 

 The Elizabethan Soldier

A short guide to the dress of an Elizabethan soldier in the Low Countries

 

It is 1588, the Crown and Privy Council have implemented a supply of clothing made to a set pattern twice a year, to us (the men) serving in the Low Countries.

This supply is to be split into two issues, a winter and summer suit, the cost of which will be deducted from our soldier’s wages of 8d a day.

This is what the best-dressed soldier will wear in the Low Countries in this Century and the beginning of the next. (16th/17th Century).

 

On the head

We will wear a cap, “…hatte cappe...” it’s called a Richmond cap, Monmouth cap or felt cap.

The cap will probably be the Tudor statute cap, the Monmouth cap is well known to us, whilst the Richmond cap remains a mystery. The hat cap will probably be a brimmed Monmouth cap also known to us and seems to be going to be issued as part of the winter suit, which makes sense as the brimmed Monmouth cap is rather warm.

The felt hat is possibly a variant on the wool felt brimmed hat, since at 3s 4d it’s not going to be beaver felt.

Colour wise it’s more than likely the various styles of cap are to be un-dyed or plain “…sadde…” colours.

On our body

We will receive four to five shirts with falling bands each year, each shirt and falling band will cost between 2s 8d to 3s over this period.

 

Over that, we will wear a doublet of linen canvas, made with 2 ells of Osnabruck linen, 2 ells of white lining, ¾ell of interlining and 1lb of bombast or padding along with list or selvage with which to make buttons, it will cost a princely sum of 8s to 10s on average.

Since this is all munitions clothing, plain, unbleached linen is the most likely choice for the shirts, bands and doublet, fustian will be used to make doublets supplied by local Authorities at the County level.

On our legs:

Described as hose or galligaskins (1570) or as Venetians (1580) are a style of breeches common throughout, that will cover our legs. Venetians are made from ¾ yard of broadcloth, with 1½ yards of linen lining and buttons. In winter an interlining of cotton, and loose weave warm wool will be inserted.

Footwear:

To round this outfit off five pairs of kersey cloth stockings will be supplied, along with seven pairs of shoes per year. 

 

Over all this:

We will wear a coat or cassock, of 1¼ to 1½ yards of broadcloth, lined with 2 yards of cotton. An unknown number of buttons are to be supplied to close the cassock.

 

Historical note:

A single reference makes mention of buttons with loops in 1599, suggesting a feature of the coat construction. Earlier references to cassocks make no mention of any buttons so it possible these are of a style that is pulled on over the head, as depicted in the Lant Roll, although these were made, in black cloth, for the London Trayned Band marching in the funeral procession for Sir Phillip Sydney in 1588 the garment reflects the cut and style of the cassock as worn by soldiers. 

They do match the description of hip length.  It’s possible the deliberate mix of broken lines and continuous lines down the front show closed seams or small buttons.  The cassock with over 100 buttons attached doesn’t appear in English use until the 1620s.